The Datsun Z sits low and still shows off those sharp lines. But there's something that most people miss - the factory suspension can actually hold it back. If you drive an S30, an S130, or a Z31, you've probably seen that the original suspension just feels a bit too soft when you want to have some fun. But it can even get rough when the road isn't perfect. And the S30 just looks ready to take off. It's a game of give and take.
Still, to choose the right set, you need to think through your budget, how much you want to modify, and what driving you want it for.
You'll see a bigger change when you use coilovers compared to just swapping in stiffer springs. Some options of coilovers can also make a weekend upgrade turn into a total headache, so it helps to look at how the Z's design reacts to new parts. You should have what the original setup gets right and the places where it starts to fall behind if you push the car a little harder.
When the road is nice and smooth, the Z's stock springs and dampers do a good job of keeping the drive easy. But once you get started on the corners or put your foot down, you'll feel those old parts start to give way under the extra load.
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Table of Contents
Factory Ride And Its Limits
The Datsun Z's original suspension actually tries to give you a combination of comfort and the sporty handling that was so popular back then. You'll see the narrow tires alongside the soft springs and dampers that can also smooth out the bumps on decent roads. That's just what gives the car its classic feel. But it also still means you'll see the body roll in corners or see the rear end dip when you press on the gas.
One owner compared driving their 240Z with this set as high as "a couch on stilts" if they drove it with any real energy - you can see those springs working overtime. You might see the same thing if you push your own Z. The way it's built just doesn't match what most people would expect in terms of handling now.
Time has its own effects as well. After years of use, the factory shocks don't do as much to control the car's motion, and the old bushings can make the steering feel loose. Put that together with the Z's tall ride height, and you'll end up with a car that feels floaty at higher speeds. Some people do like that easygoing cruise. Others end up wishing for more control. That's also the case if they want to see what the car can do. It's a different beast when you go for more. It comes down to your own preferences.
The original tires can make things even harder. They just don't have the right grip for any upgraded power or sharper cornering. If you lower the car, it has its own problems - you'll probably scrape on the speed bumps or cut back on driveways. With the stock setup, you'll hit the limits pretty fast if you go past the relaxed weekend drives. Swapping in some fresh parts helps a bit. Not bad for a Sunday drive, though. But you'll still run into compromises if you push more.
There's something special about keeping things the way they were. The original suspension connects you to the car's history and how it actually drove when it was new. But you have to ask yourself if that feeling is worth the trade-offs. That's also the case on modern roads. If you just fit some new tires, it means you'll need to rethink the car's alignment and damping. Otherwise, you aren't getting the best out of it, and you might even be losing some of your safety - neither right nor wrong.
It can depend on what you want from your Z and the way you like to drive it.
The Coilover Features
And spring rates play a big part when you start creating your Datsun Z's suspension. These numbers show you just how much the spring resists being compressed so you can know how firm or soft your ride will feel. If you pick a higher spring rate, you'll see less body roll during your turns. But the ride can still start to feel rough if you go too high. On classic Z cars like the 280Z, the engine sits up front, so it makes sense to use springs that are a bit stiffer in the front compared to the back. Think of picking springs like picking shoes - if they're too soft, the car feels loose - if they're too stiff, you'll feel every bump in the road.
Damp adjusters also give you control over how your suspension deals with bumps and sharp movements. The aftermarket coilovers come with 32 to 36 clicks, which you can turn just like turning a volume knob. Go a few clicks tighter, and the suspension firms up for you. Back it off, and things feel smoother for your ride. Have the adjusters set somewhere in the middle, then make some small differences after you drive on familiar roads. There's no need to chase a perfect setting from the start. Make a change, get started at how your car feels, and adjust one step at a time.
Threaded perches let you change your ride height, usually from about one inch higher to three inches lower than stock. If you go too low, you could end up scraping on bumps or run out of room for the suspension to work. Camber plates are helpful if you want a little more grip around corners because they let you angle the top of your wheels inward a bit. Watch out for the monotube shocks as well. These are more helpful with heat than twin-tube shocks - it helps if you like some spirited driving on twisty roads.
Watch out for the flashier phrases like "race-ready" or "maximum performance" when you shop for parts. Marketing can sometimes cloud what's helpful. Some features can be helpful for you. But others are less of a deal, depending on how you drive your car. For example, a welded spindle can make the suspension harder for handling. But it means you'll need to modify your original parts. Pillow ball mounts cut back on flex and sharpen up your steering feel. But they let quite a bit more road noise into the cabin.
It all comes down to what fits your driving style best. If you're heading out for easy weekend drives or want to see what your car can do on the track, try to have what you'll actually use and skip options that don't add value for you.
Install Choices And Challenges
When you're creating some coilovers on your Datsun Z, one of the first things that you'll choose is if you want to modify the strut tubes yourself or pick parts that just bolt on without any cutting.
If you go with the weld-in strategy, then you'll need to measure and be steady with a grinder. Even just a small mistake can make the suspension bind up or throw off your car's alignment, and fixing it isn't easy. It's a bit tough to get just right. The alternative is to use some pre-modified or bolt-in parts, which can skip any permanent changes. That option also makes sense if you're working on a rare model where keeping things original helps with the car's value.
Say you're spending a whole weekend cutting and welding, only to still end up with a strut tube that's just a few millimeters short. That can set you back. One owner talked about misjudging the height of the spacer stack and chasing down an annoying clunking sound for weeks. Another person used a no-cut kit, followed the steps, and rolled out of the shop with perfect alignment on the very first try. Your results come down to how patient you are and how much danger you're comfortable with in changes that you can't undo.
You'll want to have tools around for this job. Remember how much time it'll take for you. If you're looking to ship your struts off to a shop for modification, you could be without your car for a few weeks. That's not a good choice if you depend on your Z every day. Try mocking up the whole assembly before you do any permanent welding or final tightening. Check that the spacers and collars fit against each other the way they should. Spin the coilover sleeve by hand to make sure that it moves freely.
When you put everything back together, it's always as involved as the first setup. Tighten each bolt in the right sequence and to the recommended torque. If you miss something like a brake line bracket, you could run into some rattles right after your test drive. Snap a few photos as you take the original parts apart. You'll be happy to have the reference when it's time to figure out which washer or bushing goes where. Some parts look quite alike. But there are small differences that you don't want to miss.
Every choice between cutting parts or sticking to bolt-ons, custom pieces, or ready-made plays plays a big part in how your Z will manage. Some mistakes can be fixed with a quick run to the hardware store. Others might mean that you'll need to start over with a new strut housing. Take a minute to remember your timeline and your comfort level before you pick up the welder.
Common Mistakes And Fixes
Rushing through a coilover installation can actually create problems down the line. You can end up with one corner sitting higher than the others, which throws off the car's balance and can put extra stress on suspension parts. Sometimes, the coilovers still aren't even the real problem at all. Things like a bent chassis rail or worn bushings might just trip you up and lead you to chase adjustments that won't help. So, you should actually check the car's foundation first before you have the new parts.
When you use springs that don't match or set the preload incorrectly, it'll also cause problems. If you tighten the spring perch too much, you think you're "settling" the suspension - the springs might not move as they should. I remember a shop owner mentioning to me a customer who had some annoying clunking noises after an install. The problem turned out to be too much preload, and just a small difference also fixed it.
You could be tempted to go with some shorter springs to get the look you want. But when you don't have enough shock travel, every bump can become much harsher, and there's a good chance you'll bottom out. One driver tried to use stiff springs for a lower stance. The car looked the part. But every drive felt harsh, and a cracked shock mount seemed to happen soon after - this points out how you can pair your spring length and rate with the roads you drive to help.
It's very easy to forget the pillowball mounts during the assembly. If you tighten them too much, you can limit their number of motions or make them wear out too soon. You don't want to spend hours fine-tuning the camber only for it to change later because the mount seized up. You should follow the torque specs for these - a torque wrench is a must. Take a bit to check bump stop clearance as well. If the suspension can't compress properly, you lose comfort and safety.
When you carefully follow each step, this tends to end up saving you problems. Even the small mistakes will add up over time. Get in the habit of double-checking all your measurements and comparing the side-to-side heights before you wrap up your adjustments. If something just doesn't feel right, take a break and check things again. The suspension tuning usually works out much better when you don't rush it.
Build Your Dream Car
Finding the right suspension setup for your Datsun Z comes down to your budget, your taste for originality, and what you want out of each drive. If you think through these points before you buy, it helps you stay away from wasted money or regret later on. Try to just make a list of your top goals. That choice shapes everything. You want to preserve the car's classic character while giving it a bit of an updated feel.
You'll still want to remember the setup and the standard maintenance. As you weigh your options, try to reach out to other owners on resources like the Classic Z Cars forum or Hybridz.org. These places are full of tips from experienced people who have worked through similar decisions. Owners recommend finding a good alignment specialist who also knows vintage Japanese sports cars and how best to work with them. We all know that sinking feeling when a shop doesn't get it. How have your experiences been with the shops that work on classic cars in your area?
The hours you spend reading, installing, and dialing everything in seem to fade away the second the car comes alive - the sound when it clicks. Be patient, trust your process, and like each stage as you upgrade your Z.
Now, if you want more ideas to bring out the best in your Datsun Z, we can provide you with plenty of ways to improve style and performance. No matter which model you drive - 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, or another Datsun - our parts can help you build the Z you've been dreaming about. You'll find everything from bumpers and aluminum door cards in our inventory. We also offer center consoles and spoilers for your car. They're all designed and made to fit your goals, whether you're restoring or customizing.
Head to Skillard.com and get started at our full range - you can pick out the perfect pieces for your project.
